Renting a houseboat designed like a kettuvallam (rice barge) could be one of your most interesting experiences in Kerala, India, but it’s worth of money. Drifting through quiet canals lined with coconut palms, eating deliciously authentic Keralan cuisine, meeting local villagers and sleeping on the water under a galaxy of stars – it’s a world away from our busy corporate world.
Houseboats cater for groups (up to 10 bed rooms) or couples (one or two double bedrooms). Food (and an onboard chef to cook it) is generally included in the quoted cost. Houseboats can be chartered through the DTPC in Kollam or Alleppey, or a multitude of private operators.

This is the biggest business in Kerala and some operators are unscrupulous. The boats come in a range of qualities, from veritable rust buckets to floating palaces – try to lay eyes on the boat you’ll be travelling in before agreeing on a price. Make sure that everything (eg food) has been included in your price.

Travel-agency reps will be pushing their boats as soon as you set foot in Kerala and most of the bad experiences we hear about are from people who booked their trip outside the backwater hub towns. Your choice is greater in Alleppey (350 boats and counting!), but it’s also the more popular base and you’re quite likely to get caught in something approaching backwater-gridlock there in high season.
It’s possible to travel between Alleppey and Kollam, or Alleppey and Kochi, by houseboat over 24 hours but only on larger boats that have an inboard motor, which not only cost more but aren’t as environmentally friendly. Those that are propelled by punting with two long bamboo poles obviously don’t allow you to cover as much distance (no more than 15km in 24 hours, usually a round trip from Alleppey), but can be a wonderfully relaxing way to travel.

Prices are hugely variable. Expect a boat for two people for 24 hours to cost anything from Rs 3500. Shop around outside the high season to negotiate a bargain; in peak season you’ll definitely pay more.
Pollution from houseboat motors is becoming a real problem as their numbers swell every season. The Keralan authorities have introduced an eco-friendly accreditation system for houseboat operators. Among the categories an operator must fulfil before being issued with the ‘Green Palm Certificate’ are the installation of solar panels and sanitary tanks for the disposal of waste, as well as trying to minimise the use of outboard motors. Although the system is still new, ask operators whether they have the requisite certification. There’s been talk of running boats on cleaner natural gas, though we’ve yet to see this being implemented. Seriously consider choosing a punting, rather than motorised boat.